Duval-Leroy, Champagne (France) Brut 1996

($50, Partner’s Wine Marketing): Most vintage Champagnes from this monumental year have disappeared from retailers’ shelves, but happily Duval-Leroy just released theirs. Disgorged in October 2004 after 7 years on the lees, it has gorgeous toasty/yeasty qualities, the creamy elegance of Chardonnay and a seemingly endless finish. With some non-vintage offerings now going for more than $50 a bottle, this Champagne will not last long. Stock up for the holidays early. This Champagne is not to be missed. 95 Michael Apstein Oct 25, 2005