($9, Vincor USA): With Kumala, the South Africans aim to compete with the Australian Yellow Tail and Little Penguin labels. And judging by this Chardonnay, the Aussies should watch out. This simple, but very good wine has subtle notes of pears, a whiff of creaminess, and delivers more than I expected for the price. 85 Michael Apstein Oct 11, 2005